CrimpLab

Fingerboard training that logs every hang and tells you what load to try next. Offline, no account.

A wooden fingerboard with rows of edges and pockets.
Coming soon to theApp Store Coming soon toGoogle Play

CrimpLab is a hangboard timer, training log and plan builder in one app. Pick the board you own, run a protocol on a timer that keeps going with the screen locked, log how each hang went, and get a suggested load for the next session. Everything is stored on the phone: no account, no sign-in, no server of ours in the middle.

A look inside

Swipe through the app. Every screen here is the real app, running on a phone.

Today screen: a card for the next workout of the Max strength plan with its two protocols and a Start next workout button, then the last session below.
Today — the next workout of your plan, and how long your fingers have rested.
Timer screen mid-hang: the Beastmaker 1000 photo with the 20 mm holds highlighted, a large HANG countdown, set and part progress, and Pause, Restart and Skip buttons.
The timer, with the hold you are on lit up on your own board.
Workout setup: the plan day, the chosen Beastmaker 1000 board, hands, a finger-feel check, and the first protocol's sets and edges.
Set up a session: board, hands, a finger check, load and edges.
Plan screen: Max strength, eight weeks, with week 1 days marked Done and each day's protocols, edges and share of your test max.
An eight-week plan you can follow, or copy and edit.
Library plans tab: built-in plans listed best fit first, each marked Fits your board.
Plans listed by how well they fit the board you own.
Board screen: a Beastmaker 1000 photo with its holds listed by depth, grip and pair or single.
Your board, hold by hold, with depths in millimetres.
Progress screen: finger strength of plus 29 kilograms, 139 percent of bodyweight, a rising strength chart and time hanging per session.
Strength and volume build up over weeks.
Session summary: hangs completed, time hanging, load, bodyweight, effort and finger pain, then every set with its load and result.
Every hang logged, with the load, the edge and the result.
My bands: Purple, Red and Green elastic bands with how many kilograms each takes off.
Your own bands, each measured on a scale.

What it does

The timer, the log, and the numbers that connect one session to the next.

An accurate timer

Prepare, hang, rest and set rest, with beeps and haptics. Time is read from the clock, not counted in ticks, so it does not drift and survives the app being backgrounded. Pause, skip or restart a rep mid-session.

A protocol library

Max hangs, repeaters, 7/53, intermittent hangs, 3-6-9 ladders and more, each with an info card and its source. A protocol is an ordered list of sets with their own timings, edge, grip, hand and load, so ladders and ramps are just protocols.

Your own board, from a photo

Choose a preset or photograph your fingerboard, frame it, and mark each hold with its depth in millimetres. The timer highlights the hold you are on and tracks left and right hand.

Strength test and benchmarks

A guided max hang on a 20 mm edge, shown against grade benchmarks as a range with its caveats, never a single verdict. The comparison is context, not a prescription.

A load to try next

Starts from your tested max, then goes up after clean, easy sessions, holds after a borderline one and backs off after a failure or finger pain. The rule is visible, not a black box.

Bands and bodyweight

Add weight, hang on bodyweight, or take load off with the bands you own. Each band's assistance is measured on a scale, stacked bands add up, and everything is shown as a share of your bodyweight.

Workouts and multi-week plans

A warm-up and the main work run back to back as one session on one continuous timer. Plans put workouts on weekdays over weeks, fit to the edges your board really has, and are fully editable.

Pain check and recovery

A quick finger check before a hard session, and an optional reminder when your fingers have had their 48 to 72 hours. Pain and recovery are part of the training, not an afterthought.

Progress

Strength history, hang volume and a log of every session. Logged sets keep a snapshot of what you did, so editing a plan or a board never rewrites your history.

Health and the lock screen

Apple Health can save each session as a workout and show live heart rate. A Live Activity (iPhone) and an ongoing notification (Android) keep the countdown on the lock screen. Both are opt-in.

Your data, portable

Back everything up to a file, move it to a new phone, or export every hang as CSV. Plans can be shared as a small file with a friend. Light and dark themes, kilograms or pounds.

No account, no ads

Nothing to sign up for and nothing to sell you. The app works fully offline once installed.

Built-in protocols

Starting points to copy and edit. The names credit where each format comes from.

ProtocolShapeOrigin
Max hangs5 × 10 s on 20 mm, 3 min restLópez-Rivera & González-Badillo
Max hangs, rampedTwo lighter hangs, then 3 × 10 s at the base loadCommon coaching practice
Max hangs, two edges3 × 10 s on 20 mm, then 2 × 10 s on 15 mmLópez's medium edge to smallest edge
7/534 sets of 3 × 7 s, 53 s betweenEric Hörst
Repeaters3 sets of 6 × (7 s on, 3 s off)Eric Hörst
Intermittent hangs4 sets of 4 × (10 s on, 5 s off)López-Rivera & González-Badillo, 2019
3-6-9 ladders3 ladders of 3, 6 and 9 s hangsSteve Bechtel
Edge ladderBodyweight, 4 × 10 s from 30 mm down to 20 mmThe minimum-edge idea
Abrahangs10 × 10 s, very low load, half crimp, open, two-fingerEmil Abrahamsson
20/20 endurance3 sets of 5 × (20 s on, 20 s off)A common strength-endurance format
Warm-up hangs4 × 10 s on 45 and 30 mmGeneral warm-up practice

Honest about the evidence

The research on hangboard programming is a handful of small studies, mostly on climbers who are already strong. Grade-to-strength benchmarks are approximate, partly reconstructed from third-party summaries of Lattice Training data, and boulder-to-route conversion is approximate too. CrimpLab shows ranges with their caveats and labels the test edge. It is not medical or coaching advice: warm up, stop at sharp pain, and leave time between hard sessions.

How a session goes

  1. Choose your board once, or photograph your own and mark the holds.
  2. Take the strength test, or enter a usual load, so there is a starting point.
  3. Pick a workout or follow a plan, and answer the finger check.
  4. Hang on the timer; each hang is logged as success, fail or skipped.
  5. Rate the effort and note any pain. The next load is suggested from what happened.

Get CrimpLab

CrimpLab is in development for iPhone, iPad and Android and is not in either store yet. This page will link to the listings when it is. Questions in the meantime: crimplab-support@vedware.com.